Krug 2000: the greedy vintage

I resisted the urge to tweet that I was having Krug and croissants at The Dorchester for breakfast a couple of weeks ago. At best it would have sounded indulgent but at worst it would have sounded cringingly smug.

Nonetheless, I was pretty chuffed to be given the opportunity to have sneak peek of the newly released Krug vintage, the 2000, when Krug’s winemaker, Julie Cavil, popped over to London for the day at the end of October.

Even though I’ve been to Krug several times and she’s worked there for six years, our paths had never crossed before, but I quickly discovered that beneath her polite and unassuming charm the trademark Krug obsession for individuality has made an indelible mark on her too.

Julie with her glass of 'indulgence'

The 2000, which was the hottest year in Champagne for 40 years, is vastly different to Krug’s last vintage, the 1998, which was all about precision with that tight and focussed finish (not to mention the fact that it was – unusually for Krug – dominated by Chardonnay).

Nicknamed ‘indulgence’, the 2000 is full and frank, big and bold, broad and ballsy. I can’t think of a Champagne that’s better equipped to be paired with food and is rich in the extreme. It moves from Digestive biscuit flavours to being mineral, earthy, mushroomy and then embraces a rich baked bread character and spiciness towards the end. It’s a beguiling wine.

I wouldn’t say the wine is so much indulgent as greedy, which is how I felt as I supped on Krug and munched on pastry well before 10am, but if anything, I like to think of it as a selfless dedication to the beautiful greedy cause that is Krug 2000.

Oh, and talking of Champagne, don’t forget to pick up a copy of The Financial Times this weekend to read my piece on Champagne and disgorgement dates in the How To Spend It magazine (the Christmas issue).

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